SKU: 3071-185

Mahogany acid 1 L

EUR42.36

Available in central stock
Fast facts

Additional information

Weight 1.15 kg

Mahogany glaze is a reddish-brown glaze oil used to paint indoor wood surfaces in mahogany imitation. Mahogany acid is ready to use as it is.

Boiled cold-pressed linseed oil. resins pigments balsam turpentine

Usage: Covers approximately 12 – 15 sqm per liter.

Drying time: Dust dry after 5 – 8 hours. Can be painted over after 1 day.

Thinner: Turpentine embalming fluid if necessary.

Equipment: Brushes, combs for veining. Brushes are washed out with balsam turpentine and then linseed oil soap.

Storage: Cool. Dry. Almost unlimited storage time. Can be frozen.

Description

Mahogany glaze is a reddish-brown glaze oil used to paint indoor wood surfaces in mahogany imitation. Mahogany acid is ready to use as it is.

Additional information

Weight 1.15 kg

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Dokument

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1. first clean the surface to be lasered. The best substrate is a clean wooden surface, planed

or finely sanded with steel wool or sandpaper.

2. to get an even absorption and thus an even color, you should first oil the surface with a so-called semi-oil, a mixture of 50 percent boiled linseed oil and 50 percent turpentine.

Leave to dry for 1-2 days.

3. When the surface is dry, apply the glaze paint.

  • Then smooth out the paint to get an even color and to avoid the paint becoming too thick. Different colors have different coverage, but the opacity is also determined by how light you are on your hand. Press the brush hard and the paint will be thinner. Be light on your hand and it will be thicker. If you want more coverage, you can also increase the amount of paint in the glaze – or paint again! But let it dry in between.
  • A simple mahogany acid can be seen in our 1890s room in the “Second Building” in Gysinge.
  • In general, we have only painted “long straw” and avoided more difficult core drawing and outright wood imitation. The overall impression is not worse because you choose this simpler way of painting. Prepare a masonite board on the side and prime it. You can use it to practice veining before you start on the real surfaces. For imitation mahogany, both glaze primer and glaze paint can be bought ready-made.
  • Paint a thin base coat of light yellow linseed oil paint, corresponding to a maximum of 7% iron oxide yellow in our color chart. Make the paint lean, i.e. dilute it with at least 10% turpentine. The primer is only for smoothing out the surface’s own color variations and should be thin, rough and very matte, otherwise you will just slip around with the glaze paint in the next step. Here is an old recipe based on the use of dry pigment.
  • Spread the glaze paint on top of the base paint. Spread it evenly with a wallpaper brush.
  • Draw wood patterns using a brush, wallpaper brush or similar. If necessary, add a core drawing using a little glaze that breaks in an even darker color than the mahogany glaze itself. Wait a while until the color “sets”. Then soften the painting by gently brushing the surface with a displacer. Leave to dry.
  • It is a good idea to coat the entire surface once more with unpigmented laser oil. This will make the surface extra resistant to wear.

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Properties: Provides durable and glossy surfaces. Highly weather and water resistant.

Suitable for: New and old wooden surfaces indoors and outdoors, on floors, exterior doors, windows, garden furniture, boats, etc.

Color: Colorless, but can be broken with linseed oil paint to other colors. More information can be found in the book Painted Floors and in the article under the tab “Building care – Do it yourself” at the top of the page.

Gloss: High gloss. The gloss is slightly reduced if the varnish is thinned with balsam turpentine.

Indoor application: Paint with a paint brush. The more thin coats, the more durable the surface. The first coat is thinned with about 15% turpentine, then with 10-5% turpentine in the other coats.

ATTENTION! The floor must be at room temperature for a successful treatment.

Outdoor application: Outdoors, at least 5-6 coats may be needed if the wood is new. The first coat is thinned with about 15% turpentine. Intermediate sanding with fine water sandpaper and wipe off the dust between coats.

Thinner: turpentine balsam.

Tools: Paint brush with stiff bristles.

Brush wash: First, balsam turpentine. Then linseed oil soap and water.

Drying time: Dust dry after about 2-3 hours at room temperature. Can be painted over after 2 days.

Storage: Dry and cool. Does not freeze. Almost unlimited shelf life if the jar is well filled and well sealed.

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Yellowish-brown oil for birch bark treatment of indoor wood surfaces.

The birch glaze is ready to use. It is applied on top of the glaze base (see Glaze base) and patterned with a wallpaper brush, for example, to form a striped pattern known as long straw. Or you can print a crumpled newspaper on the glaze surface to create masur birch. A third variation is to imitate flame birch with a birchbark brush. Scrub birch and flame birch are usually displaced, softened, with a displacer, but “long straw” is usually displaced.

If you want an even darker glaze, for example to draw details such as grain patterns and the like, you can add more linseed oil paint, such as unfired umber, to darken the birch glaze.

If you want to achieve a stronger surface than the birch bark itself provides, you can apply a layer of uncolored oil on top, or varnish it with linseed oil varnish, as was done in the past.

The surface in the latter case is much shinier than if you use laser oil.

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